Analog-Digital Display (ana-digi): Watch that shows the time by means of hour and minute hands (analog display), as well as by numbers (digital display). Watch enthusiasts value analog timepieces because of their traditional aesthetics, easy to use crowns and visual time/space oriented designs. Digital timepieces can offer a variety of complications, such as an end of life function that traditional analog timepieces cannot. An analog/digital timepiece combines the benefits for a versatile timepiece. Aperture: Small opening in a dial plate through which information, such as the day of the week, is displayed. Applied Chapter: Hour numerals or decorations that adorn the dial, typically cut from sheets of metal and then fitted to the timepiece's dial. Arabic Numerals: Popular counterpart to Roman numerals consisting of 1,2,3, etc; Became popular during the 18th century and typically allow for more space on the dial for complications. ATM: Commonly used measurement in water resistance; Stands for "atmospheres" or the amount of pressure a watch can withstand before leaking; One atmosphere is equal to 10 meters of water pressure; For example, a 3 ATM watch can withstand the pressure at 30 meters or 100 feet under water. Automatic Movement: Type of movement where the mainspring is wound via the movement of one's own arm; Movement of the arm causes the rotor to rotate, which in turn winds the mainspring; Similar to mechanical movements, except winding is not manual. Atomic Timekeeping: Timepieces with atomic timekeeping receive time calibration signals through radio waves from Fort Collins, Colorado to self-calibrate and display the most accurate time. You can select from one of four U.S. cities depending on your time zone. The time also self-adjusts to time zone differences. Bezel: Retaining ring topping the case and securing the crystal; Sometimes incorporates unidirectional or ratcheting movements, engraved or printed chapter markers, or complications such as a tachymeter. Buckle: Type of clasp that situates a prong into the strap. Calibre: Specific layout and design of a watch's various components. Carbon Fiber: Known and appreciated for its strength, carbon fiber is created by bringing raw organic matter to a very high temperature. It is then added to synthetic resins until they are scorched or carbonized, producing a thin, strong, durable material. These qualities make it popular in producing structures where light materials are preferable and capable of enduring a great deal of tension. Carbon fiber is therefore common in the production of automobiles, aircrafts and buildings. Carillon: Striking mechanism, or chime, that involves two or more bells of varying tones. Case: Timepiece's container; Protects the movement from dust, dampness and injury; Common case shapes are round, tonneau, rectangular and square. Case Back: Bottom of a watch's case that can be opened for access to the movement. Chronograph: Functioning similarly to a stopwatch, a chronograph is a unique and valued complication due to its ability to measure increments of elapsed time while the watch still maintains traditional timekeeping abilities. The crown controls the analog watch while function pushers allow you to start, stop and reset the chronograph subdials. Variations of chronographs include the double chronograph with two separate stopwatch mechanisms and the flyback chronograph which allows the user to stop, reset and start the chronograph with a single depression of the function pusher. Chronometer: High-precision timepiece that has been tested and is certified to meet precision standards; Chronometer watches often come with certificates indicating their certified status. Clasp: Closure that fastens the bracelet or strap to your wrist. Complication: Any feature added to the timepiece that does not indicate hours, minutes or seconds. Popular complications include chronographs, tachymeters, date windows and exhibition backs. COSC Certified Chronometer: The phrase "COSC Certified" refers to timepieces that have been christened with the title of chronometer. To become a chronometer, timepieces have to pass a test conducted by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometers (COSC), roughly translating to Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. COSC is a prestigious Swiss government agency that certifies the accuracy and precision of timepieces in Switzerland. Timepieces are inspected to determine whether they fall within the window of acceptable error (-4 seconds/day to +6 seconds/day). If a timepiece meets this narrow requirement, it is then eligible for certification. High-precision timepieces that have been COSC Certified are among the very finest on the market today. Cotes de Geneve: An example of fine artistry in a timepiece, this movement elaboration incorporates large ribbons etched into the movement to reflect light. Crown: Part that allows you to manipulate the watch movement for a variety of purposes such as setting the hands, changing the date, winding the mainspring, etc. The crown typically has to be pulled out first before it can be used; Some crowns screw into the watch case in order to increase the water resistance of the timepiece. Crystal: Transparent cover on a watch face that gives view of the dial. Date Window: Reveals the numeric day of a given month. Deployant: Type of clasp that keeps the closing mechanism hidden, creating an uninterrupted look for your bracelet or strap. Dial: Plate beneath the crystal showcasing the timepiece's features; Sometimes referred to as the face of a timepiece, the dial indicates hours, minutes and seconds, as well as complications such as date windows and subdials. Digital Watch: Timepiece that shows time with digits rather than with a dial and hands display Dual Deployant: Similar to a deployant clasp, except it uses two hinges to fasten or open, as opposed to one. Dual Time Zone: Timepiece that simultaneously gives time in two time zones. GMT function serves the same purpose and is used interchangeably, as it can be set to any time zone you wish. Exhibition Case or Back: Unique complication wherein a crystal window is implemented into the back of a watch case, allowing view of the timepiece's movement. Flame Fusion Crystal: Synthetic crystal created through a process that utilizes high heat, high pressure and aluminum oxide. This combination ensures the mineral (glass) and sapphire properties are fused together, resulting in the impact-resistance of a standard mineral crystal and offers the scratch-resistance of the sapphire. Fold-over Clasp: Hinged clamp permanently attached to one end of the bracelet snaps closed over a loop on the other end of the bracelet; To open this unobtrusive clasp, gently lift the clamp to unhook it. Function Pushers: Manual controls on a case for when a movement features complications that require increased manipulation. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT): Also referred to as Greenwich Meridian Time, the Greenwich Meridian Line is located at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, England. It is the place from where all time zones are measured. Greenwich Mean Time is the average time that Earth takes to rotate from noon to noon. In this regard, GMT is thought of as "the world's time" and was once the basis with which every other zone set time. This is due to the fact that the Greenwich Meridian Line sits at the center of the time zone map at zero-degrees longitude. Even though GMT has been replaced by atomic time as the world's standard, it is still largely regarded as the correct time for every international time zone. GMT is also watch complication that allows the watch to display a separate time zone independent from the main dial. Guilloche: Style of engraving that features wavy or straight lines, giving a unique effect when the timepiece is moved or shifted. Hand: Indicator that moves around the dial typically representing hours, minutes and seconds; Usually made from lightweight metal. Ionic Plating: Process that produces a hardened surface that is durable and scratch-resistant. To create the hardened surface, technicians bombard the base material, like stainless steel, with positively charged ions in a heated vacuum or chemical bath for a high density finish. Ionic plating creates a tight chemical bond between the plating and base material which prevents flaking and scratches. Ionic plating has a black flat "stealth" finish. Jewels: Within a movement, metal on metal contact creates wear and tear. Watchmakers use jewel bearings to reduce friction and help the delicate parts of the movement work smoothly and with great precision. Jewels help extend the movement's life. Diamonds, sapphires, rubies and garnets are the preferred materials. The jewel arrangement can vary by manufacturer but as a general rule, a higher number of jewels suggests a more prestigious movement. Karat: Unit of measurement used to clarify the purity of a gold alloy. Lugs: North and south ends of the case that attach to the strap or bracelet and often extend out from the dominant lines of the case. Mechanical Movement: Type of movement where the winding crown is used to power the movement; Needs to be manually wound after an elapsed period of time; Sometimes accompanied by a exhibition back to display its old-fashioned sensibilities. Meteorite: First discovered in 1838 by Capt. J.E. Alexander upon hearing of native iron building up along the Great Fish River. The Captain decided to have samples analyzed and it was realized that these large masses were not of Earth-born origin. It is believed that the Gibeon meteorite was actually quite large but broke up into smaller pieces upon reaching Earth's atmosphere. Scientists theorize that the Gibeon meteorite fell to Earth in pre-historic times. Radiometric dating of Gibeon meteorite fragments have classified them as approximately four billion years old. Mineral Crystal: Technical term for glass. Minute Repeater: Timepiece that sounds hours, quarters and minutes as requested. Moon Phase: The lunar cycle has been a cornerstone of horology, the study of measuring time, since ancient days. Moon Phase is a complication on a timepiece that displays the various stages of the moon cycles from waxing to waning. It appears as a dial visible through an aperture which reveals the current moon phase. Stages include new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter. Mother-of-Pearl: Dial material that has been cultivated from the inside of certain shells; Provides an iridescent surface and gives timepieces a rich aesthetic. Movement: Assembly making up the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock; Includes the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement and the regulating elements. Perlage: An ornamental design that looks like a consistent pattern of concentric circles or overlapping dots. Created with a rapidly rotating plastic or wooden dowel, this design was first fashioned to prevent dust and other harmful irritants from collecting on a timepiece's movement. Since then, the perlage finish has worked itself to other areas of the case or bracelet and is appreciated for its beauty. Perpetual Calendar: Complication that exhibits the days in a Gregorian calendar, the most common calendar used today; Automatically adjusts to months with different amounts of days in them. Plating: Process that covers one metal with another; Usually a more precious metal is used for the final plating. Plongeur: The specific style of hands on a diver's timepiece. This style shows an oversized minute hand that is often luminous, outlined, bright in color and/or pointed at the end. Crafted entirely for functional purposes, the minute hand was created as a main focal point, so that a diver can readily see its position when timing decompression stops. This feature provides the diver with a quick reference point at a moment's glance. Polish: Process used to give timepieces a smooth and shiny finish. Power Reserve: Time a watch will continue running based on the movement's residual winding of its mainspring; In quartz and digital watches, this can also refer to the amount of energy left in the battery. Push Button Dual Deployant: Similar to deployant and considered one of the most desirable and easy-to-use clasps, the push button dual deployant employs two small hidden push buttons that release the bracelet. This clasp keeps the closing mechanism hidden for an uninterrupted, seamless finish. Quartz Movement: Most common type of movement used in modern timepieces; Vibrating at a high frequency and placed under an electric current, quartz movements provide accurate time without the need to wind. Repeater: Complex watch mechanism that sounds hours, quarters or minutes, or repeats them on request; Originally designed to help the wearer to tell the time in the dark. Retrograde: Hour, minute, second or calendar hand that moves across a scale and resets to zero at the end of its cycle. Sandstone: Rock forged from little grains of feldspar and quartz (sand). It sets in many places as it really just needs water to form. Varying in color from one area to another, it is an easy rock to split and carve. This quality makes it popular in the construction of pillars, fountains, fireplaces and even timepieces. Sapphire Crystal: High-end, synthetic crystal that adds greater value to a timepiece. Sapphire is one of the most desirable crystals because it is transparent, very strong and scratch-resistant. In fact, the only natural substance able to scratch a sapphire crystal is a diamond. Skeletonization: Reveals the intricate symphony of moving rotors, gears and springs which power a timepiece; The open design offers an insider's view, as unnecessary metal is cut away to allow the wearer to actually see the movement's skeleton. Solar Powered Quartz Movement: Solar panels on the face absorb and convert light energy to charge the battery. The panels can utilize even weak illuminations from fluorescent lighting. The rechargeable battery and quartz movement drives the various functions from display backlighting to timers. Subdial: Smaller dials located on the main dial of a timepiece; Used to measure seconds, minutes or days. Swiss Made: Since the 16th century, Switzerland has been the epicenter of watch making, producing some of the industry's greatest technological advances. "Swiss Made" stands out for both its uniqueness as well as the implications it makes. The Swiss put a law into effect for all timepieces baring the words "Swiss Made": First, the movement must be assembled in Switzerland. Secondly, the movement must be cased up in Switzerland. Finally, the manufacturer must carry out the timepiece's final inspection in Switzerland. Signaling quality, craftsmanship and a passion for watchmaking, "Swiss Made" has a solid reputation for quality craftsmanship and aesthetic appeal. Tachymeter: Scale on a watch used to determine units per hour, such as average speed over a fixed distance, or distance based on speed; Typically located along the outer rim of a dial. Tonneau: Case shape with rounded, bulging sides that resemble a barrel or cask. Tourbillon: A mechanism which attempts to optimize precision within mechanical timepieces. This device aims to equalize the effects of gravity on a watch by mounting the balance wheel and escapement inside a rotating cage. Within the cage, the escapement spins around its own axis and rotates one revolution per minute in order to compensate for position changes over 360 degrees. Crafted originally for function, this device is now equally appreciated for its exceptional aesthetics. Modern watchmakers employ highly valued tourbillons for precision, design and superior craftsmanship in the finest of timepieces. Tritium: Miniature tubes containing gaseous Tritium and layered with phosphor to power the luminous accents. Tritium is an isotope of hydrogen that when combined with a phosphor substance, creates a radioluminescent light which can be seen for several meters in darkness. Tritium illumination requires no electrical power but must be "charged" by holding your watch close to any light source. The longer you hold it there, the longer and brighter you'll see the Tritnite. Unidirectional Rotating Bezel: Used for tracking elapsed time. A ratchet mechanism prevents the bezel from rotating backwards. This feature is popular with divers, who rely on the elapsed time feature to prevent the diver from running out of air. The fact that the bezel cannot rotate backwards prevents the wearer from underestimating the elapsed time. Valjoux Movement: Designed in 1974, the prestigious Valjoux 7750 movement is a pure chronograph movement that uses an automatic winding component connected to the top. It winds in a single direction thanks to one double click wheel. Originally this Valjoux movement utilized 17 jewels but now higher end models use 25 jewels or more. Water Resistant: Watches described as simply "water resistant" can handle light moisture, such as a rainstorm or splashes from a sink, but they should not be completely submerged in water for any length of time; A commonly used measurement in water resistance is ATM, which stands for "atmospheres" or the amount of pressure a watch can withstand before leaking. World Time Function: Complication that allows you to match your current time with other major cities across the world; To set, pull your crown out to its 2nd position and set time as you normally would. Next, operating your outer ring with the crown on the left side of the case, move the city nearest to your time zone to the hour hand. When this is done, the outer ring's cities all correspond with hour markers. Whatever hour markers these cities land on indicate what time it is in that part of the world. TOP
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