A gemstone setting is the way in which a gemstone is mounted on the metal within a jewelry piece. Here are the most common settings defined.
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Bar Setting
Two thick strips of metal hold a gemstone in place (one on each side). A bar setting is similar to a channel setting, but usually involves only one stone.
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Bead Setting
A cluster of smaller gemstones embedded in metal, similar to a pave setting. Little beads of metal are pushed up to the edge of the stone to hold it in place.
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Bezel Setting
A metal rim wraps entirely around the gemstone. The bezel setting helps protect the stone from damage without blocking the light necessary to create sparkle.
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Channel Setting
A long groove that holds multiple gemstones. Usually a hole is positioned below each stone to allow light to pass through.
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Flush Setting
In this setting, the entire gemstone is sunk into the metal of the jewelry so that only the top is visible. This creates a sleek, streamlined look and provides excellent protection for the stone, but it does somewhat limit the stone’s brilliance.
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Pave Setting
This setting method involves clustering numerous small gemstones together in a hexagon-like layout to create a distinct pattern. The stones are secured in shared prong settings, giving the appearance of a solid diamond surface. The desirable settings can be used to enhance a larger stone or used alone for a beautifully "paved" look. Frequently used on the band of a ring, the settings may go all the way around the band (full pave), or more commonly stop half way (half pave). In a full pave ring, the pave set diamonds or stones would be visible from the open palm of your hand.
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Prong Setting
Thin metal “fingers” lift the gemstone up in the air, which allows each facet to catch the maximum amount of light.
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Tension Setting
A relatively modern design in which the gemstone is held in place by the pressure of the metal (usually a ring).
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Tiffany Setting
This is a special high-prong setting usually reserved for large solitaire diamonds. Tiffany & Co. introduced it in 1886. |
Box Setting
This is a method of stone setting in which the gem is enclosed in a box and the edges of the metal are pressed down to secure the stone. A "collet" setting is a variation of this in which the sides of the box are filed away to allow more light to enter the gemstone.
Claw Setting
A claw setting is also known as a prong setting. The claw setting jewelry term is most commonly used in the United Kingdom, while prong setting is mostly used in the United States.
Crown Setting
The side view of this setting has the appearance of a royal crown. It is a box-like setting consisting of a flared cylinder, one end of which is notched to form prongs.
Invisible Setting
The invisible setting technique was developed in France more than two centuries ago. Grooves in each stone's girdle slip into a metal framework below the surface, but the metal cannot be seen, so stones sit side-by-side to create the appearance of a solid surface of gems. Invisible setting techniques are often used to create the illusion of one large diamond out of several diamonds set together.
Martini Setting
When it comes to jewelry, martini is simply the name for a three-prong setting. From the side, the prongs angle to a V-shape at the bottom, resembling the angular martini glass shape. Almost always holding a round cut stone, the martini is rarer than the traditional six- or four-prong setting and has modern appeal. It's most commonly used for stud earrings.
Tulip Setting
With a side view that has the appearance of a tulip, this is a prong setting with a small curved base attached to the body of the jewelry piece..
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