Basic Eyeshadow Principles
The key to selecting eyeshadow is to select it with your eye, hair and complexion in mind. The second consideration is to keep it coordinated with your outfit.
Before applying eye makeup, use a primer. It helps smooth the surface of your eye and makes it a more even canvas to apply your makeup. It also helps to prevent smudging, thereby increasing the longevity of your makeup.
Try to use at least two or preferably three eyeshadow shades. The lightest shade will highlight and brighten because it's used on both the lower part of the lid and on the brow bone. The medium shade will add depth to the corners. The darkest shade will add dimension, significant depth and definition to the overall shape of the eye. The two darker shades should be applied to the middle of the lid, extending into the crease and outer eye area. Remember to blend the shades with a brush.
Eyeliner & Eyeshadow Application for Specific Eye Shapes
Eyeliner should extend half way on the upper outside corner of the lid and just one third of the way from the outer bottom corner. Choose a flattering light shadow with a neutral tone and apply it to the entire eyelid. Next, select a medium tone shadow and fill in the area from the crease to the eyelash line. Add a darker shadow to the crease and concentrate on the outer corner of the eye. Blend well using an upward and outward motion with your application tool.
Eyeliner should only be applied on the outer corners of the upper and lower lash line. Choose a neutral color, or one with a light shimmer, and apply to the entire eye. Apply a mid-tone shadow to the middle of the crease and concentrate the eyeshadow at the outer corner of the eye. Make sure that your colors are blended using upward and outward strokes.
The eyeliner should extend to the outer 2/3 of the upper lash line and 1/2 of the lower lash line. Chose a light shimmer or neutral shadow and apply to the entire eyelid. Apply a medium tone shadow to the crease and outer corner of the lid. Take care to blend toward the brow bone.
Apply eyeliner to the entire upper and lower lash line. Using an eye shadow brush, apply a neutral color to the entire eyelid. Apply a darker mid-tone to the crease from the outer to inner corner of the eye.
Define the eye by keeping the eyeliner line as close to the lash line as possible. Make sure to line the upper and lower lid. Use a dark color, avoiding black or extremely dark colors because they appear too harsh and will create an illusion of smaller eyes. The objective of applying makeup to deep-set eyes is to visually bring the eyes forward. Choose a light eyeshadow with a touch of shimmer and apply to the entire lid. Create contour by applying a medium toned shadow to the crease and blending.
Eyeliner should be drawn on the outer three quarters of the upper and lower lash line. Next, apply a medium tone, preferably a neutral eyeshadow, over the entire eyelid. Use a darker shadow to apply from the lash line to the crease. Take care to blend in an outward fashion. Shimmery shades are not recommended for prominent eyes.
Apply eyeliner to one half of the upper and lower lash lines. Smudge line at the outer corner with a very gentle and light outward direction. Use a light eyeshadow to the entire lid. Choose either a medium tone or dark shadow to define the crease and outer corner of the eye. Blend the outer color on the lid up toward the brown line. The lower brow line can also be highlighted with a light shadow, adding further definition.
Eyeliner can be applied to the entire upper and lower eye. Take care to fade or blend the line as you work toward your nose. Brush the whole eyelid with a medium tone eyeshadow. Define the crease with a darker shadow and fill in the outer corner. The look is complete once the shadows are blended with upward strokes.
Curling & Mascara Application for Lashes:
Lashes define the eyes and enhance them with a bit of curl. An application of mascara will help make your eyes stand out whether you decide to select lightly natural or dark smoky eye makeup.
Once you position your eyelash curler with your lashes in the pads at the roots, squeeze gently. Repeat this two more times, once in the middle, then at the tips of the lashes.
Sweep the mascara brush from the base (roots) to the tips of lashes. Sweep the lashes from the back side as well, again from the base to the tips. Comb out any clumps with an eyelash comb/brush utensil. Apply a second coat of mascara for a more dramatic effect.
Eyeshadow Brush: Usually squared at the tips, this brush can be used for both powder and cream-based eyeshadows. Consider this a makeup essential if you wear eyeshadow often!
Blending Brush: This brush has a tapered head and serves to blend lines and colors, helping soften the overall look of eye makeup application. Its bristles are a bit softer than an eyeshadow brush.
Eyebrow Brush: A must-have for the lady who wishes to keep the look of her brows groomed. It's a firm angled brush that effectively applies eyebrow products such as powders, waxes and creams.
Crease Brush: Ranging from thin and tapered to round and fluffy, crease brush heads are soft and pliable in order to maneuver around the contour of the eye.
Eyelash Curler: Constructed from metal or plastic, there are many different styles of eyelash curlers on the market today. There are even curlers that use battery power to heat up while creating a curl! Each has its own features/benefits and price range varies widely. The key is to choose a model that doesn't pinch the lashes at the corners of your eyes and creates a nice uniform curl without crimping or pulling the lashes. Sometimes experimentation will be necessary to find the right model for you. To use an eyelash curler, place the base of the curler at the bottom of the upper eyelashes. Once you have your lashes centered between the curler pads, press gently yet firmly for a few seconds and release. Follow with a coat or two of mascara.